Winter Is Approaching—How Here's to Change Your Skincare Routine.
Though it's cliche to say that changing your wardrobe isn't the only thing you should do in the winter, it's still true. Lightweight gel moisturizers and charcoal cleansers that worked well in September may not be adequate in December. Dry air, frigid winds, and constant exposure to indoor heat suck moisture from your skin, stripping it of oils essential for healthy skin barrier function as colder temperatures approach. Skin sensitivity, redness, and irritation can also result from these conditions. Bottom line: A regimen change is in order.
But don't think about a complete overhaul just yet. According to Doris Day, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York, you may only need a few simple swaps and additions. "Observe how your skin changes and adjust or switch out products accordingly," she suggests. "In general, you should use gentler cleansers and creamier moisturizers." Follow these dermatologist-recommended skincare switcharoos for a smooth transition to keep skin happy and hydrated—and flaky freakout-free.
Replace your cleanser with a balm, oil, or cream.
While foaming, bubbly cleansers are enjoyable and not beneficial to your skin. "Foaming or salicylic acid-based cleansers are great for removing dirt and oil, but they contain sulfates, which can be more drying than other types of cleansers," says board-certified dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, MD, of New York City. "Cleansing creams, balms, and oils can wash the skin effectively while keeping it hydrated and not disrupting the skin barrier."
If you have pimples, use caution with acne-focused skincare with salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide. These harsh ingredients, when used in excess, can aggravate dry skin. If you're a regular user, pair those products with pH-optimized skincare to help regulate skin barriers that have become out of balance.
Include a good exfoliator.
The benefits of proper exfoliation are well known. According to Hadley King, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, gentle (I repeat, gentle) exfoliation helps remove dead skin cells accumulated from dry winter air, leaving your skin looking more glowy and allowing your post-cleansing moisturizer to absorb better.
However, please don't overdo it! "We live in an over-exfoliating society," says Dr Zeichner. "While exfoliating can help brighten the skin by removing dead cells, doing so too frequently can disrupt the outer skin layer, causing dryness and irritation." "Exfoliate once a week at first, then twice a week if you can tolerate it."
Reduce the length and temperature of your shower.
While winter weather may appear to be the ideal time for a long, hot bath, resist the urge. Dr King claims that prolonged contact with hot water can deplete the skin's natural moisture, leaving you even drier. She advises, "Take only one lukewarm shower per day." And, while your skin is still damp from the shower, apply rich moisturizers to lock in moisture. Use enough to leave your skin feeling hydrated, which may necessitate more application than in the summer. "
If your skin is flakier than usual, try dry brushing, which involves rubbing your skin in a light, circular motion with a brush. The mechanical action exfoliates dry winter skin and promotes lymphatic drainage. It's also a fantastic self-massage.
Change your moisturizer from a lotion to cream.
If you only remember one thing, make it this: keeping skin hydrated is the cardinal rule of winter skincare. A lighter lotion may satisfy your skin during the dog days of summer, but it will not keep you warm in the winter. "While humectants may have sufficed to keep the skin hydrated during humid months," says Dr King, "emollients and occlusives will be more important during low-humidity conditions."
Let's go over that again:
Humectants (hyaluronic acid and glycerin, for example) are low-molecular-weight substances that draw water from the air and into the skin.
Emollients are creams and lotions that aid in the function of the skin's barrier.
Oils and waxes that form a layer on the skin and physically prevent water from escaping are known as occlusives.
Dr King believes that an ideal winter moisturizer contains all three components. But don't worry; these thicker moisturizers can still be non-comedogenic (that is, they won't cause breakouts).
Apply multiple layers of skincare.
It's not my intention to keep comparing skincare to clothing, but it's the best metaphor here. Consider skincare application the skin's outerwear: Your skin, like your clothing, requires layering to stay warm during the cooler months. Dr Zeichner explains that "layering allows you to address multiple skin concerns with different products simultaneously." A good rule of thumb for layering skincare is to start with the lightest and work your way up (watery toner first, serum second, and moisturizer third).
According to Dr King, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, bakuchiol, and botanical oils are some of the hot ingredients to look for in the cold. They work together to reduce inflammation, restore hydration, and strengthen the skin barrier.
Don't forget the SPF, which is essential in the winter. "Even incidental sunlight exposure accumulates over a lifetime," Dr Zeichner says. While the sun's rays are more robust in the summer, you are still vulnerable to U.V. damage in the winter. Because U.V. light reflects off of snow, you can get a sunburn even in the dead of winter. "
Don't forget an overnight mask.
We don't need an excuse to wear a face mask, but winter is the best time to start if you haven't already. The world of skincare masks is vast, but don't sleep — or doze — on overnight masks. Overnight covers are designed to be the final step in your nighttime skincare routine, helping to lock in all of the serums, creams, and oils you applied earlier. "Your skin has circadian rhythms," explains Dr Zeichner. "Because skin hydration levels begin to decline in the afternoon and continue overnight, p.m. masking is extremely beneficial in keeping the skin hydrated." If you sleep in a room with dry heat, combine your overnight mask with a bedside humidifier to seal in moisture even more.
Overnight masking is also a great way to incorporate more targeted treatments into your skincare routine. Those suffering from eczema, for example, may benefit from ceramides and aloe, while those seeking anti-ageing benefits may prefer a night mask infused with retinol or bakuchiol.
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