A Retinol Beginner's Guide

The holy grail of skincare compounds has been dubbed retinol, a vitamin A derivative with a long list of scientifically confirmed advantages. With outcomes like enhanced skin texture, increased collagen synthesis, and fewer dark spots, it's understandable why beauty enthusiasts all around the world vouch for the potent ingredient. However, using retinol has its share of negative side effects, like inflammation and redness.

We sought tips on how to include retinol in your skincare regimen from dermatologist Julia Carroll of Toronto's Compass Dermatology and medical aesthetician Amanda Mizen of Toronto's North Medical Spa.

Retinol: What is it?

A form of retinoid that is generated from vitamin A is retinol. Your body naturally produces retinol, which helps to increase cell turnover, jump-start collagen synthesis, and lessen fine lines and wrinkles. Retinoids, which are stronger prescription retinoids, have a younger sister called retinols, according to Carroll. It is a form of vitamin A that is better for the skin and is frequently found in over-the-counter skincare products.

What are the advantages of taking retinol for skincare?

Retinol reduces the appearance of hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and wrinkles; improves skin moisture; and cures acne. It also helps to clear pores, exfoliate, and smooth skin. According to Mizen, it's the best option for skincare because it gets everything done. Carroll claims that over time, retinol can also thicken the dermis, the layer of skin under the surface, making skin healthier and more youthful-looking.

Can retinol be used on all skin types?

Any skin type can take retinol, according to Carroll, although those with fair or sensitive skin should exercise particular caution since it may be more difficult for them to acclimatize to the powerful component. Mizen does not advise retinol for those with sun-damaged skin or skin that has been excessively exfoliated (either through at-home or professional treatments). Retinol shouldn't be used by expectant women, but it should also be emphasized.

When ought I to begin utilizing retinol?

Since collagen levels in the skin begin to decline more quickly in one's thirties, Mizen often advises her clients to begin taking retinol around that age. But a retinol-based beautification regimen can benefit people of all ages. When prescribing retinoids, Carroll adds, "I frequently emphasize the long-term advantages and will urge that patients continue to use the retinoid even after I have eradicated their acne." Dermatologists utilize retinoids for teenagers with acne.

How can I add retinol to my skincare regimen?

Carroll advises trying a "low and slow" strategy as his first piece of advice. "Start with a very modest dose one night, around the size of a pea, and wait a few days to gauge your tolerance." Carroll advises attempting it once more if you don't get a response. However, she advises combining the retinol mixture with your moisturizer if the product causes your skin to become red and scaly. Use retinol once or twice per week at first to see how your skin will respond, then work your way up to twice weekly or every other day.

Retinol makes your skin more sensitive to sunlight, so it's important to only use it at night as part of your skincare routine. Mizen and Carroll both emphasize the need to apply SPF when using retinol. Carroll advises that whether you use a topical retinoid or not, you should wear an SPF of at least 50 every day. The best sunscreen is the one you will wear gladly every day of the year, the saying goes. She suggests looking for a sunscreen product that offers UVA and UVB protection and is approved by the Canadian Dermatology Association.

Why can retinol cause reactions in particular skin types?

Retinol can benefit your skin greatly, but it can also occasionally cause peeling and redness. Retinol can cause skin reactions for a number of reasons, including overuse, underuse, improper skin preparation, and retinol combining with other abrasive substances, such as exfoliants or acne treatments, according to Carroll and Mizen.

What should I do if retinol causes a negative reaction in my skin?

Retinol responses often just cause dryness and discomfort, which are manageable, according to Mizen. "A little sensitivity is typical as your skin gets used to the product." Carroll and Mizen both advise avoiding the use of retinol and other skincare products containing active ingredients if your skin is really inflamed, with the exception of sunscreen. Your skincare routine should be reduced to a mild cleanser and a fragrance-free moisturizer.

You can try retinol once more once the response has subsided. According to Carroll, it may be possible to increase tolerability by using the medicine less frequently yet consistently.

What type of retinol should I put on my skin?

It might be difficult to decide which choice is ideal for you when there are so many to pick from. Start with a modest dose of retinol, perhaps 0.025%, if you are new to it. If your skin doesn't react negatively, you can gradually increase the proportion. (In Canada, 1% is the maximum proportion that may be obtained without a prescription.)

Mizen favors retinol that has been enclosed in a carrier system within the cream or serum, which increases the ingredient's capacity to permeate the skin. She continues by saying that these products usually have better stability and leave the skin feeling nourished.